EXCURSIONS AROUND 
AIX-LES-BAINS 



COMPILED BY 
* WILLIAM MORRIS DAVIS 

Professor of Geology, Emeritus, Harvard University 
Honorary Member of the French Alpine Club 



^ 



PUBLISHED FOR THE 
Y. M. C. A. NATIONAL WAR WORK COUNCIL 

BY THE 

APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB 
OF BOSTON 

CAMBRIDGE, MASS. 
1918 



EXCURSIONS AROUND 
AIX-LES-BAINS 



COMPILED BY 
WILLIAM MORRIS DAVIS 

Professor of Geology, Emeritus, Harvard University 
Honorary Member of the French Alpine Club 



^ 



PUBLISHED FOR THE 
Y. M. C. A. NATIONAL WAR WORK COUNCIL 

• BY THE 

APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB 
OF BOSTON 

CAMBRIDGE, MASS. 
1918 







& 



COPYRIGHT, 1918 
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB OF BOSTON 



JUL 22 ISI8 



CI.A5G0680 



PREFACE 

THIS guide book, published at the suggestion of the 
National War Work Council of the Y. M. C. A., in an 
edition of 2000 copies, is a gift to the Officers and Men of the 
American Expeditionary Forces in France from the Appa- 
lachian Mountain Club of Boston. 

The members of the Club have, one or another of them, 
visited many mountain ranges in various parts of the world. 
They remember with satisfaction the invigorating exercise 
of arduous ascents on steep slopes; they recall with pleasure 
the exhilaration of wide views from lofty summits. They 
now rejoice to think that their soldier-compatriots may, while 
on leave from military duties, enjoy the recreation of walking 
and climbing in the beautiful mountains of the French Alps 
around Aix-les-Bains. 

May this little book be a helpful companion on many 
delightful excursions. 

W. M. D. 
Cambridge, Mass. 
May, 1918. 



EXCURSIONS AROUND AIX-LES-BAINS 



AIX-LES-BAINS AND ITS REGION 

THE town of Aix-les-Bains (altitude, 260 m., population, about 
9000) in the ancient province of Savoy lies between the southern- 
most ranges of the Jura mountains and the western ranges of the 
Alps in southeastern France. Near by on the west is Lake Bourget 
(alt. 231 m.), a beautiful sheet of water 12 k. long, trending north 
and south between mountain ridges on either side. The mountains 
hereabouts rise from 1000 to 1500 m. (3300 to 5000 ft.) above sea 
level, and are therefore higher than any mountains that many 
Americans, whose homes are in the central United States, have ever 
known. The snowy ranges of the Alps, which may be seen to the east 
from favorable points of view, reach altitudes of 3000 or 3500 m., 
and are therefore much higher than any summits in the United 
States east of the Rocky mountains. 

Aix-les-Bains is 450 k. southeast of Paris, 80 k. east of Lyons, 60 k. 
south of Geneva, and 275 k. north of Marseilles. The boundary be- 
tween France and Italy trends irregularly southward along the crest of 
the Alps about 80 k. to the east. The river Rhone, coming from Lake 
Geneva where France adjoins Switzerland, passes near the north end of 
Lake Bourget, and about 30 k. farther southwest turns to a northwest 
course in a strong V-like bend through the Jura mountains before flow- 
ing west across a more open country to its confluence with the Saone; 
there Lyons is situated at the base of the Central highlands. The Rhone 
then flows southward along the eastern base of the highlands for 140 k., 
and in 280 k. reaches the Mediterranean sea. 

The small delta-plain on which Aix-les-Bains is built lies at the base of 
a slope which rapidly rises eastward to a mountainous height (1500 m.). 
The situation as well as the name of the town — the Baths at the 
Waters — is determined by warm springs (44°-47° C. or 111°-117° F.); 
the baths have made the town a popular resort for over a century. The 
settlement of the surrounding district is of ancient date. The remains 
of prehistoric lake dwellings have been found near the shores of Lake 
Bourget and are now preserved, along with many relics of Roman 
occupation, in the local museum. Already in the third or fourth century 
of the Christian era the town was populous and rich enough for the 
erection of a fine stone arch, still well preserved. 



6 THE PROVINCE OF SAVOY 

In the Middle Ages the Counts of Savoy with their seat at Chambery, 
14 k. S of Aix-les-Bains, dominated the province. They grew in power, 
and one, as Duke of Piedmont in northwestern Italy, transferred his 
capital to Turin in 1577. Nearly three centuries later Victor Emmanuel 
of the same family, having with the assistance of France expelled the 
Austrians from the province of Lombardy, became King of Italy. Savoy, 
which had been incorporated into France by the Convention of 1792 
and remained French until the defeat of Napoleon I in 1815 allowed its 
return to Italian domination, was finally in 1860 ceded to France in 
recompense for the aid which that country had given to Italy against 
Austria, and the cession was confirmed by an almost unanimous vote of 
the Savoyards. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS FOR MOUNTAIN 
EXCURSIONS 

In order to gain a clear idea of the district about Aix-les-Bains and 
to plan a series of excursions from which much interest and exhilara- 
tion may be gained, the visitor should lose no time in ascending to a 
near-by hill or ridge crest (see Excursions 1 and 2), whence a good 
view may be obtained and the general lay of the land examined. One 
who has already made some such ascents can do good service to 
later comers by leading them as promptly as possible to the best 
points of view that he has enjoyed. 

Do not make high mountain ascents alone. If a guide is engaged con- 
sult the local tariff and agree upon his charge before starting. When 
paying him at the end of a trip add about 10 % of the charge for a tip or 
" pourboire," and pay it cheerfully as a matter of course. If one guide 
is taken for a party the tip should be increased. Sign posts abound in 
the vicinity of Aix; no guide is needed on the lower ridges and moun- 
tains. Excursions are best made in small parties of three or five. If a 
large party sets out, it should be divided into squads of ten or fewer 
members. Those who wish to make the excursion without stopping 
should join a separate squad from those who wish to stop frequently for 
photographing or sketching. 

Each squad should, if possible, have an experienced leader; he should 
make a list of the members, head the line of march on narrow paths, and 
set the proper pace, slow for ascents, faster for descents ; a shrill whistle 
will aid in summoning his party together. A marshal should follow in 
the rear to round up the stragglers. Before setting out on a long moun- 
tain walk, place the members of a squad in a circle and let each member 
take note of his two neighbors, one on his right, one on his left, for whose 
presence he is to be responsible whenever the march begins after a halt : 
each member will thus be looked for by two others. Once on the road, 



SUGGESTIONS FOR MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS 7 

keep together; those who wander away from their squad cause vexatious 
delays. The marshal's report, " All present and ready to start," is 
especially important when a descent begins. If a member wishes to leave 
his squad after low ground is reached, he should so report to his leader. 

Clothing should be easy fitting, so that discomfort shall not be added 
to fatigue. Even in warm weather, a coat will often be wanted on a 
ridge crest, or mountain top : it can be best carried as follows : — Sew 
the middle of a 30- or 35-inch piece of strong tape inside of the back of 
the collar; sew the ends of the tape to the bottom of the arm holes: 
pass the arms through the loops of the tape, and let the coat hang loosely 
on the back ; it will thus be held so that nothing will fall from the pockets 
and the arms and hands will be free. A light water-proof cloak may be 
wanted. Hob-nailed shoes and Alpenstocks are always helpful; they 
are indispensable in high-mountain excursions. A pocket compass is 
useful in selecting paths by direction. A light pocket lunch should be 
carried, in case return is delayed. Avoid drinking from streams 
below villages and from village wells on low ground. During the 
warmer season start at sunrise or earlier, so as to have the cool morning 
air for uphill walks; rest in the afternoon. 

Walk quietly, especially when passing through villages. Walking 
along railways is forbidden in France. Do not race with one another, 
especially in descents. Do not roll loose rocks down from ridge tops. 
While walking uphill, adopt a moderate pace that can be steadily 
maintained; and keep going. Inexperienced climbers are apt to walk too 
fast at first and, on feeling the strain of a long ascent, to become dis- 
couraged and " give it up "; or if they persist to the top, they may be 
tempted to accept bodily fatigue as an excuse for the indolent contem- 
plation of a view, the full enjoyment of which calls for active observa- 
tion. Let these beginners remember that many others have shared their 
feelings, but have learned to regard temporary fatigue as a misleading 
adviser. There is no harm done if one becomes somewhat tired; exhaus- 
tion is prevented by reducing the pace when moderate fatigue begins. 
Let the mind rest on agreeable thoughts while the body is working 
steadily during a climb; when the summit is reached, let the body rest 
as comfortably as possible while the mind works actively in a conscious 
examination of the view. Avoid the error of neglecting the view after 
making a great effort in attaining the view point. 

An ascent of 400 or 475 m. an hour may ordinarily be made on a 
mountain path; where paths are wanting, ascent is much slower; where 
rock climbing is necessary, slower still. Descent is usually much 
shortened by cut-offs at zigzags in the path of ascent: the time of de- 
scent may be only a half or a third of that required for ascent. The 
time noted for excursions below does not include stops : additional time 
should be allowed for leisurely rests at good points of view. 

Make a practice of keeping your bearings and of estimating distances 
and heights, all to be verified by reference to a map. The local maps 
here included are reduced to a scale cf 1 : 100,000 (1 centimeter on the 
map = 1 kilometer on the ground, or about f inch = 1 mile) from the 



12 PHOTOGRAPHS AND SKETCHES 

French army-staff map on a scale of 1 : 50,000. The maps on the four 
preceding pages show the district around Aix-les-Bains, which is repre- 
sented near the southwestern corner of Map 2. The NE and SE quar- 
ters of sheet 169 and the NW and SW quarters of sheet 169 bis of the 
1 : 50,000 army-staff map are helpful for local excursions; sheets 48 and 
54 of the 1 : 200,000 map of the geographical service of the army will be 
found useful on more distant excursions. When a mountain top is 
reached, identify in the landscape a good number of points represented 
on the maps. 

Carry a camera and a note book. Do not attempt extensive views 
unless with a camera especially adapted to such work; select local views 
and " bits " of landscapes or village scenes, and give special care to 
rinding a good foreground; when villagers and peasants are included, 
do not have them all look at the camera, unless portraits are wanted, 
Descriptive notes and sketches made on the spot stimulate observation, 
increase enjoyment, and prolong memory. Detailed plans of parts of 
paths, not sufficiently shown on the maps here presented, will be valu- 
able aids to later visitors : draw them out and hang them up where they 
can be seen. The more closely an observer enters into an appreciative 
and sympathetic understanding of what he sees, the greater recreation 
of mind and body will follow from his excursions. 

Abbreviations: Aix for Aix-les-Bains (not to be confused with the city of 
Aix, near Marseilles). N, S, E, W, north, south, east, west: alt., alti- 
tude; m., meters (1 m. = 3.28 feet); k., kilometer (Ik. = f mile); h., 
hour; Mt., Mont (Mount); Mtne., Montagne (Mountain); Exc, 
excursion; htl., inn, rstt., hotel, inn, restaurant; pop., population; 
ry, railway; sta., station. 



EXCURSIONS NEAR AIX-LES-BAINS 

The following excursions are a few of the many that may be made 
from Aix. They are planned so as to introduce the visitor to the 
general features of the district. The first excursion, or the second as 
far as the Croix de la Biolle, may be made to advantage on the after- 
noon of arrival : the third or the fourth should not be delayed later 
than the day after arrival by visitors in good health, if they wish to 
gain the greatest enjoyment from other excursions during the rest of 
their stay. Read the account of an excursion before undertaking it. 
Inquire, before setting out on any of the longer excursions, whether 
restaurants in out-of-the-way places and hotels or inns at villages 
recommended for the night are open. Consult time-tables for all railway 
excursions. 



TRESSERVE AND MONT DE CORSUET 13 

Excursion 1. Maps 2 and 4- Tresserve, a village on a low ridge, 
2 k. SW of Aix, about 100 m. above Lake Bourget (alt. of lake, 
231 m.). The best view is from the ridge crest, 338 m., W of the 
village, where a fine prospect is opened^ over the lake and to the 
mountain ridges E and W. In the afternoon of warm sunny weather, 
return should be made by a lane along the E base of the ridge, to 
which descent may be made at various points; in the morning or on 
cloudy da} r s of warm summer weather, return may be made by a road 
along the lake shore, to which a winding lane descends rapidly from 
the S end of Tresserve village, and to which two forks of the village 
road descend more gradually farther S. Distance out and back, from 
5 to 10 k.; time from 1 to 2 h. 

Exc. 2. Maps 2 and 1. Mt. de Corsuet, a ridge belonging to the 
Jura mountains, N of Aix. Follow the main Geneva road (Route 
Rationale 201, de Chamber}'' a Geneve), or go by electric railway 
alongside of this road, N 2.5 k. ; cross to the W side of Sierroz (Seroz) 
brook, and 350 m. beyond, where a lane on the left turns back to the 
SW, take an ascending path to the NW. The Croix de la Biolle, 
817 m., on the crest of Mt. de Corsuet, 6 k. or 2\ h. from Aix, offers 
an extensive prospect in all directions. On the return, a path 
branches to SSW, 1.4 k. S of the summit, and descends 2 k. to the 
village of Brison-St. Innocent (inn) near the lake, whence a main 
road leads to Aix, \\ h. from the summit. 

This excursion may be prolonged by following the ridge crest or 
the adjoining slope NW 2.5 k. or 1 h. ? to a somewhat higher point, 
842 m. (There is no path along the ridge crest here; inquire before 
starting from Aix as to best course to take.) Descent may then be 
made on either slope by a path that crosses the ridge just S of the 
842 m. summit: on the W, the path soon turns S and slants down 
the ridge flank. Or the ridge may be followed 1.5 k. still farther NW 
to the high village of Chambotte (rstt), where a road crosses a depres- 
sion of the crest. Here descent may be made S by a path on the W 
flank of the ridge to a main road along the lake shore,.9.5 k. to Aix, 
but this route should be avoided on warm sunny afternoons: or E 
by a road to the village of St. Germain, whence a SSE and S path 
along the W side of a valley is a shorter return than a road along 
the E side; but both rejoin the main Geneva road on the way back 
to Aix. Distance to Chambotte and back, 20-22 k.; time, 6-6f h. 



14 THE MONT DE LA CLUSE 



ollow a 



Or instead of turning S on the slope W of Chambotte, fol 
slanting road N 4.5 k. along the flank of the ridge to the low 
ground N of Lake Bourget; then loop back SW0.8 k. to Chindrieux 
sta., and return by train S 14 k. to Aix. 

An attractive supplement may be made to the above excursion over 
the same ridge about 5 k. farther N, where it is called the Mtne. de 
Cessens. Take train from Aix N 14 k. along the. border Lake Bourget 
to Chindrieux sta. at N end of lake: the ancient castle of Chatillon is on 
a knob, 268 m., 0.5 k. to the SW. Walk N 2 k. from sta. to Chindrieux 
village; turn E 0.3 k. and N 0.5 k. on the mountain flank; then ascend 
NE by a zigazg lane, 1.6 k. in direct distance, to the upper slope, where 
the lane turns S 1.7 k. to the Col du Sapenay, 931 m.; continue by path 
and lane S 2.8 k. along the slope above the cliffs with fine view over the 
lake, to a second col at the ruined Towers of Caesar, 852 m. (rstt.); fine 
view from a higher point on the ridge to N. Turn E on a lane (the flat 
paving of an ancient Roman road is seen here) and descend 0.7 k. to 
Cessens; continue E 0.8 k. then S 2.4 k. to St. Germain, and return to 
Aix as above. Total distance from Chindrieux sta. to Aix, about 24 k. : 
the last 6 k. may be made by train. 

Exc. 3. Maps 2 and 4- Mt. de la Cluse and the Grand Revard. 
The Grand Revard is a superb point of view on the precipitous face 
of the Mt. de la Cluse, a subalpine range, 1450-1550 m., that rises 
5 k. E of Aix and extends 8 k. S to the Dent du Nivolet, which over- 
looks the city of Chambery. Ascent to the Grand Revard on foot, 
8 k. in 4 h. ; descent by same path, 3^ h. or less (ascent by inclined 
ry., see below). Follow an ascending road E from Aix through the 
villages of Mouxy, 2 k., and Mentens, 3 k. ; continue 1.5 k. by a path 
which rises, partly in zig-zags, to a bench where it turns S 1.3 k. 
beneath the summit cliffs; then ascend E to a notch, the Col du 
Pertuiset, 1407 m.; here a good spring is found. The path turns N 
from the col, mounting slowly over highland pastures amid pine 
groves, and in less than 1 k. reaches an Alpine Club shelter and some 
chalets or mountain huts; 1.5 k. farther N an easy ascent leads to 
the Grand Revard, 1568 m. (htl., rstt.) A superb view is here 
opened, including Mt. Blanc, E 80 k., from which the snowy Alps 
extend far S; the Central highlands are seen W 100 k. 

The descent may be varied by taking a path NE 2.5 k. to La Cluse and 
N 4 or 5 k. to St. Offenge; then by road NW 2 k., SW 6 k. (passing the 
falls and gorge of the Sierroz near Gresy), and S 4 k. to Aix in 5 h.; or 
from La Cluse N 2 k. then W and SW 7 k. by paths and lanes along the 
mountain flank, past St. Victor and Trevignin to Aix, 4 h. Or in the 



THE GRAND REVARD 15 

other direction, the mountain crest may be followed S past the Col du 
Pertuiset 5.2 k. to another col beyond which rises the Mt. des Ramees, 
1422 m.; turn W in the col and descend by a zigzag path to a N-S path 
on a bench; here turn N 300 m., then descend again through a cleft by a 
direct path to the village of Mery, whence various roads lead NW and 
N 6 k. to Aix in 5 h. As all the descending paths on the W slope of the 
mountain are exposed to strong sunshine in summer afternoons, it is 
well, if time allows, to spend the day on the highland in excursions on 
the gradual slope to the E of the crest. A circuit E 4.5 k. over a ridge to 
the village of La Magne, then S 3 k. by road over the broad Col de 
Planpalais, W by lane and path 4 k. to the mountain crest, and N 3 k. 
to the Grand Revard again, may be recommended. Pass the night in 
the summit hotel, and descend to Aix early the next morning when the 
precipitous W slope is in the shade. 

The ascent from Aix to the Grand Revard may also be made by an 
inclined railway, first E, then ENE, then SSW to the summit in 1 \ h. 
The chief advantage of the ascent by rail is that time is then allowed 
for extending the excursion S along the mountain crest to the Dent 
du Nivolet, whence descent may be made by various paths to 
Chambery, and return by train to Aix in one day. In this case, 
follow the path S from the Grand Revard to the Col du Pertuiset, 
and continue nearly to the Mt. des Ramees, 5.2 k., where a steep 
descent to W leads down to the village of Mery, as noted above. 
Here the best path turns E 1.3 k.; then SSW 3 k. to the Dent du 
Nivolet, 1553 m., 9.5 k. or 2|-3 h. from the Grand Revard. The 
cliff face makes an angle at this point between W and S, and a 
superb view is opened S across the breach of Chambery to the Mtne. 
de la Grande Chartreuse, the SW extension of the subalpine range to 
which the Dent du Nivolet and the Mt. de la Cluse belong; also SSE 
across the great valley of the Isere, locally known as the Graisivau- 
dan, to the high mountains beyond. 

Descent may be made by a crevice in the cliffs, 0.5 k. E of angle, to 
the chalets of Le Nivolet on a bench (1200 m. ?), but this should not be 
attempted by inexperienced climbers without a guide : from Le Nivolet 
a more gradual descent by path, lane and road leads S and W to Cham- 
bery, 7 k. (4h. ?) from summit. Another way of descent leads E near 
the sloping cliff top for 2 k. to a depression, the Col de la Doria, 1087 m., 
beyond which the cliffs rise again to the S in Mt. Pennay, 1371 m.; a 
rocky path (may not be in good condition; inquire at chalets 0.5 k. to N) 
leads almost W 0.5 k., obliquely down the cliffs, then S 2.3 k. to main 
road, 550 m., near St. Jean d'Arvey; follow the road WSW 5.5 k. to 
Chambery; 4| h. (?) from summit. 



16 THE DENT DU NIVOLET 

An easier descent from the Dent du Nivolet follows a roundabout 
course: first, return 1-2 k. along the path of approach; turn E 
across sloping pastures and woodland 2 k. to a hamlet, whence a 
lane and various paths descend E 1 k. to the village of Les Deserts, 
940 m. (inn) : here take the main road, which comes from the high- 
land of Les Bauges (see Exc. 10) on the N and continues down a 
sloping bench on the right (W) of the Leisse, a torrential stream, 
first S 4 k. then W 3 k. passing St. Jean d'Arvey, 578 m. (inn), and 
other villages beneath the cliffs of Mt. Pennay, 1370 m., and finally 
5 k. WSW mostly across low ground to Chambery, 300 m.; 16.5 k. 
or 4 h. from the Dent du Nivolet; 26 k. or 6^-7 h. from the Grand 
Revard. A car or carriage may be ordered beforehand at Chambery 
to meet a party at Les Deserts. From Chambery, N by train to 



Exc. 4. Maps 1 and 4- La Dent du Chat, a knob, 1400 m., at the 
N end of the Mt. du Chat, one of the Jura mountains which rises to 
1400-1500 m., SW of Lake Bourget, 5-10 k. from Aix. The ascent 
of the Dent is best made from the village of Le Bourget (htls.), at the 
S end of the lake; this point may be reached from Aix by road, S 
4.7 k., and W 3.8 k.; or S by train 4.7 k. to Le Viviers, then W by 
road 3.3 k.; or by boat: take street railway from Aix W 1.5 k. to 
Port de Cornin on margin of delta plain, boat SW 5 k. to Port du 
Bourget, road S 1 k. to village. As the ascent from Le Bourget, 
240 m., is mostly on a steep slope facing E it should be made at as 
early an hour as possible in warm weather : hence in summer go to 
Le Bourget in the late afternoon, spend the night there, and start out 
before sunrise the next morning. Ascend W by lane and path on S 
side of a ravine 1.4k. to a bench, 490m. alt.; follow path on the 
bench N 1.5 k.; then ascend W by zigzags to a high-level path, and 
turn N along it (an Alpine Club shelter is on this path near a spring) , 
rising obliquefy for 1.3 k. to the E base of the cliff-rimmed Dent; the 
final climb to the summit is aided by an iron railing set in the rock; 
ascent, 3 h. from Le Bourget; descent by same path, 2 h. A fine 
view is opened across Lake Bourget to the cliffs of the Mt. de la Cluse 
and the higher mountains beyond; also, SE past Chambery and 
across the valley of Graisivaudan to the great Chain of Belledonne, 
2500 m., and beyond to the snowy crest of the Grandes Rousses, 
3500 m., as well as far over the lower district to the W (see Exc. 6). 



THE DENT DU CHAT 17 

The highest point of the Mt. du Chat, 1479 m., is about 0.5 k. 
SSW of the Dent. 

The Dent du Chat may be ascended more directly by crossing the 
lake, 231 m., from the Port de Cornin (see above), SW 2.7 k. to Bour- 
deau landing; the boat should be retained to meet the party on the 
return trip. Ascend by steep path to Bourdeau village (htls. rstt.; 
ancient castle, restored) ; continue ascending by NW path to a highway, 
the "Route de France," that leads from Chambery to Lyons; the 
zigzags (htl. at last angle overlooking lake) may be shortened by foot 
paths until the road turns W and leads directly to the Col du Chevelu, 
638 m., 2.5 k. or 1 h. from lake. The path to the Dent, distant 2.5 k., 
here turns SSW, at first following the steep slope W of the ridge crest, 
then crossing the crest in notches; as the path may be indistinct on 
slopes of loose rock, inexperienced climbers should take a guide. Time 
for ascent from lake, nearly 3 h. ; descent, 2 h. If those who ascend 
from Le Bourget wish to descend to Bourdeau, they should inquire 
before starting as to the condition of the path from the Dent to the Col 
du Chevelu, and take a guide if so recommended; a boat for returning 
across the lake should be engaged before leaving Aix. 

Exc. 5. Map 1. Mt. de la Charvaz, overlooking Lake Bourget on 
W. Tramway from Aix NW 2.5 k. to Port de Puer on delta of the 
Sierroz; boat NW 6 k. to Abbey of Hautecombe on W side of lake. 
The Abbey was founded about 1130 and rebuilt 1824-43; the princes 
of Savoy were buried here from the twelfth century to 1778; the 
chapel, highly decorated and containing many statues, was retained 
by Italy when Savoy was ceded to France in 1860. Ascend SW by 
path 1 k. from landing to upland bench, alt. about 600 m., over 
cliffs. (Fine point of view on an isolated knob, 920 m., 1.5 k. to NW, 
near village of Ontex.) Follow path S along bench 5.5. k. — fine 
view over lake — to Gratteloup; just beyond, the path joins the 
" Route de France " (see Exc. 4), which comes up by zigazgs from 
S and turns W over the Col du Chevelu, 638 m. (Path from Gratte- 
loup W 0.5 k. to col; fine view to W: return along road, small htl., 
at first angle overlooking lake.) Descend from Gratteloup S 1.5 k. by 
road and short-cut paths to Bourdeau (htls., rstt.) ; then E 0.5 k. by 
steep path to lake, where boat previously engaged crosses lake NE 
2.8 k. to Port de Cornin; tramway 1.5 k. to Aix. Round trip, 4-5 h. 

Exc. 6. Gorge of the Rhone at Yenne. Take train from Aix N 
20 k. to Culoz, W 12 k. to Virieu-le-Grand, SSE 10 k. to Belley, 
270 m. The cathedral of Belley was restored in 1864 in the style of 



18 GORGE OF THE RHONE AT YENNE 

the fifteenth century, but the choir dates from 1413. Follow the 
main road E from sta. 0.7 k. to cross roads; there take a lane SE and 
E; it soon zigzags up the N end of the Mtne. de Parves, and thus 
reaches Montpellaz and Parves, about 520 m., on the E slope, 4 k. 
from ry. Several lanes and paths lead S; by keeping on the upper 
slope, the summit of the Mtne. de Parves, 629 m., may be reached 
in about 3 k. ; fine view into the gorge of the Rhone on the S. De- 
scend E and SE by path and lanes, 2.5 k. to a bridge over the Rhone 
where it enters the gorge; follow road E 0.5 k. to Yenne, 236 m. 
(htl.). Then (see Map 1) E by " Route de France " 8 k. to the Col 
du Chevelu, 638 m., at N end of Mt. du Chat; descend via Bourdeau 
to Lake Bourget as in excursion 5, and cross lake in boat previously 
engaged. Distance from Belley to Lake Bourget, about 22 k. 

This walk may be shortened to about 16 k. by continuing on train 
from Belley S 4 k. to Brens; then follow the road S 1 k. and E 5 k. 
through the gorge of the Rhone to Yenne, etc. At the lower (W) end of 
the gorge, the fort of Pierre-Chatel, no longer occupied, was formerly a 
monastery, founded in fifteenth century. Or the walk may be lengthened 
to about 26 k. by continuing on train from Brens S 10 k. to Murs, 
220 m., near the great V-bend of the Rhone, whence the ascent NW and 
N via Izieu, 4 k. to the Mtne. dTzieu, 760 m., gives a fine view of the 
Rhone valley; also E to the Jura ranges by Lake Bourget, SW over the 
open piedmont country, and N into the valley of the Gland where 
Premeyzel village lies. Descend E 2.5 k. to small village of Fay; thence 
N 1.7 k. by road to Peyrieu, NE 4.5 k. nearly to Brens, and turn E as 
above. 

Exc. 7. Maps 4 and 3. Lake Aiguebelette and the Mtne. de VEpine. 
Railway from Aix S 14 k. to Chambery; change train and run W 
15 k. — direct distance 9 k. — (tunnel 3 k. under the Mtne. de 
l'Epine) to Aiguebelette, 400 m. ? (htls.) Here one may walk Nik. 
to the boat landing and take a boat 3 k. to the N end of the lake; 
walk back by the road near the W and S sides of the lake, 9 k., and 
return to Aix via Chambery by train. A better plan is to ascend a 
path NE 3 k. from Aiguebelette to the col of the same name, 848 m., 
in the Mtne. de l'Epine, thus gaining a fine view E and W. Descend 
by a path NE 2 k. to St. Sulpice, 564 m., then by a picturesque road 
E via Cognin (ancient chateau) 6.5 k. to Chambery, about 3^ h. 
from Aiguebelette : train to Aix. Or before reaching St. Sulpice, turn 
S 4 k. along the mountain flank to the cascade of Couz, 48 m. high: 
take train from near-by station to Chambery, etc. 



THE MONTAGNE DU GRAND COLOMBIER 



19 



Exc. 8. Map 5. Mtne. du Grand Colombier. Train from Aix N 
20 k. to Culoz, 240 m. (htl., rstt.). Ascend by a zigzag path N of the 
town to an upland, 1250 m. (direct distance from ry. sta. 4 k.); then 
up zigzags W to chalets, 1350 m. (direct distance, 1 k.); continue 
W 0.7 k. to the summit ridge of the Mtne. du Gr. Colombier, 




' — , -^v:> i SKA;::-. 

"-c . v - ^ - =_ mmst 




|:^ ! >',;% 



■SB 







Map 5. Montagne du Gkand Colombier 

1446 m., 3-4 h. from railway. Superb view of Alps, Jura, and the 
valley of the Rhone. Return by same path to Culoz sta., 2-2| h.; 
train to Aix. 

This excursion may be prolonged (inexperienced climbers should in 
this case engage a guide at Culoz) by following the mountain crest N 
2 k. to a higher summit, 1534 m.; then descending NW and crossing 
ravine to zigzag road (short-cut paths) to Virieu-le-Petit, 3 k. from 
summit; then S 5 k. to Artemare (inn) in the valley and 1.5 k. farther 
to ry. sta. If desired the descent from the 1534 m. summit may be 
made more directly by a path (not so far N as the zigzag road) W 3 k. to 
Munet, then S 3.7 k. to Artemare, etc. 



20 



THE GORGE OF THE FIER 



Exc. 9. Map 6. Seyssel and the Gorge of the Fier. Train from Aix 
N 34 k. to Seyssel (ML) on the Rhone, which here flows S between the 
Mtnes. du Grand Colombier on W and du Gros Foug on E. Cross 
the river by bridge, 255 m., and follow the highway S 3 k. to the 
Fier, which comes from the E and here issues from its 4 k. gorge (not 
to be confounded with the chasm of the Fier, 12 k. farther E) : the 
gorge cuts off the small Mtne. des Princes, 942 m., on the N 




Map 6. Seyssel and the Gorge of the Fier 



from the Mtne. du Gros Foug, 1051 m. A first-order highway runs 
through the gorge on the right (N) bank of the river: the arched 
structure of the mountain rocks is well revealed in the gorge walls. 
Near St. Andre (rstt.) at the upper (E) end of the gorge, a bridge 
over the Fier crosses to a third-order road which follows the left (SW) 
side of the open valley near the river, while the highway follows the 
right side farther from the river: both roads lead SE 8.5 k. to 
Rumilly, 350 m. (htls.), on the Cheran, 2.5 k. above its confluence 
with the Fiers, and 15.5 k. from Seyssel. From Rumilly, train, car- 
riage or car, S 20 k. to Aix. 



THE VALLEY OF THE CHERAN 21 

This excursion may be profitably lengthened, if lunch is carried, by 
turning W from the third-order road at the small village of Verlay 
4 k. S of the St. Andre bridge, and ascending about 170 m. above the 
valley to a spur crest, where a lane leads S via the hamlets of Moye 
and Poisu 5 k. to Le Villard: or lunch at Rumilly and follow lanes SW 
and W via the hamlets of Survignes and Salongy to Le Villard, 4 k. 
Here ascend the Mtne. de Gros Foug (known as the Mtne. de Cessens 
and 'the Mt. de Corsuet farther S) W 2 k. to the summit village of 
Mont-Clergeon; extensive view from a summit, 1031 m., near by to 
NE. Descend W by zigzag lane 6 k. to Rufneux (direct distance, 2.5 k.) ; 
take main road W 3.7 k across the marsh of Chautagne and the bridge 
over the Rhone; turn SW by lane alongside of railway 1.6 k. to Culoz 
sta. : train S 20 k. across marsh and along the E side of Lake Bourget 
to Aix. 

Exc. 10. Maps 7 and 8. The Valley of the Cheran. A circuit of 
about 90 k., of which the most attractive part lies in the valley of 
the Cheran through the picturesque subalpine ranges of the Bauges 
east of Aix, follows roads of first and second order and may be made 
on foot in three days (or in two, if the last 40 k. are made by train), 
in carriage in two days, or by automobile in one. This excursion is 
highty recommended as giving an excellent view of village and 
pastoral life in the highlands of Savoy. It may be advisedly pro- 
longed by local excursions from Le Chatelard and Ecole, as noted 
below. 

From Aix N 3 k. (tramway) by main road; then take the right 
fork, cross the railway, and 4 k. from Aix turn NE below Gresy (the 
gorge and cascade of the Sierroz are near the turn); ascend the 
valley 8 k. to an open col, 523 m. The NE extension of the Mt. de 
la Cluse (see Exc. 3) rises to SE. Shortly beyond the col, the road 
turns E, passing Cuzy on a hilltop to N (the feudal castle of Fesigny 
is 0.5 k. NW of Cuzy), rounding the N slope of the mountain, and 
entering the transverse gorge of the Cheran high above the stream. 
A branch lane descends E 1 k. to the Pont de rAbime (rstt.), a 
suspension bridge 66 m. long, and 94 m. above the stream: here one 
may cross to a third-order road on the E side of the gorge and follow 
it up stream (SE) 4 k. past the village of Alleves to the bridge of 
Banges, 20 k. from Aix (see Map 7), built near an ancient Roman 
bridge, where the second-order road from the col by Cuzy, having 
turned to SE, crosses to the right bank of the Cheran. The gorge 
cuts the Mtne. de Semnoz from the Mtne. de Banges (the NE exten- 
sion of the Mt. de la Cluse); the unsjrnimetrical arch of the rocks 



22 LE CHATELARD 

which form this marginal subalpine range is well seen, overthrust to 
the NW, in the walls of the gorge. 

One k. S of the bridge of Banges, a cavern, la grotte de Banges, on the 
mountain side above the road (inn, rstt.) may be entered. A longitudinal 
valley, trending N and SW, then opens and is followed over easy cols 
by second-order roads in both directions : — N 22 k. over the Col de 
Leschaux, 904 m., to Annecy; SW 26 k. over the Col de Planpalais, 
1180 m. to Chambery; the latter road passes Lescheraines (inn) 0.7 k. 
after crossing the Cheran, and Les Deserts (inn; see Exc. 3) 13 k. 
farther on: by taking this road the 90 k. circuit of this excursion may 
be reduced to about 60 k., of which the last 14 k. (Chambery to Aix) 
may be made by train. 

Le Chatelard, 757 m. (htls.), 9 k. from the bridge of Bange, 30 k. 
from Aix, lies on the NE side of the Cheran valley where two long 
parallel ridges extend N 15k.; one of them forms the point by 
which Lake Annecy is constricted; S of the Cheran the two ridges 
soon unite in a single one which extends almost to the S-most point of 
the Bauges (see Exc. 11), where the Chambery breach turns off 
from the Isere valley. The autumn fair held at Le Chatelard after 
the cattle are driven down from the mountain pastures is worth 
attending. The road crosses the Cheran 1 k. SE of Le Chatelard; 
1.5 k. farther a rough mountain road comes from the head of Lake 
Annecy, 15 k. N, crossing over two high cols, 1659 m. and 1338 m., 
in a longitudinal valley, and passing the villages of Doucy and 
La Compote before reaching the Cheran. At Ecole, 720 m. (inn), 
4.5 k. SE of Le Chatelard, the road (see Map 8) turns S up an open 
longitudinal valley, and in 8 k. reaches the Col du Frene, 956 m. (not 
to be confused with the col of same name on the other side of the 
Chamber}^ breach) : here a superb view opens over the broad valley 
of the Isere and the mountains bej^ond. The road descends SE 
in zigzags 6 k. (by short-cut paths, direct distance, 2.5 k.) to St. 
Pierre d'Albigny (htls.), and 1.5 k. farther to ry. sta.: train SW 
and NW 24 k. to Chambery, and N 14 k. to Aix. 

If the night is spent at Le Chatelard or Ecole, the next day may be 
given to the ascent of the Trelod, 2186 m. (Map 7), near the S end of 
the long Mtne. du Charbon, of canoe-like form. Follow the longi- 
tudinal valley, above mentioned, N past La Compote and Doucy to 
Cul du Bois; here a guide is needed to show the path: the summit is 
reached in 4J h. Descent by same path, 3 h. : descent by path E and S 
to Ecole is somewhat longer. From the Trelod a mountain path leads 



THE MONTAGNE DU CHARBON 



23 



N 4 k. to La Pointe du Banc-Plat, 1915 m. (spring near the top), on 
the W side of the canoe, whence an exceptionally fine view of Mt. 
Blanc is disclosed. The sharp N point of the canoe,'[1573 m., may be 
reached by a path along the slope of the E side-ridge, 6.5 k. from the 
Trelod. 



lMM> " 




Map 7. The Valley of the Cheran near Le Chatelard 



24 



THE CHERAN HEADWATERS 



An even more attractive excursion may be made in a highland 
valley SE of Ecole (see Map. 8), enclosed by the high ridges of a 
large " canoe " mountain on all sides, except where the Cheran head- 




Map 8. The Headwaters of the Cheran and the # Valley 
of the isere 



THE COL D'ARCLUSAZ 25 

waters flow out to the NW through a deep notch. The canoe valley 
contains the forest of Bellevaux as well as many chalets on Alpine 
pastures: a guide is helpful to save time in selecting the desired path. 
A rough road ascends the valley of the Cheran SE from Ecole, 3 k., 
to the ruins of the monastery of Bellevaux, 907 m., in the Cheran 
notch, founded in the eleventh century, burned in 1825. There 
various paths branch into different parts of the highland valley. If 
time allows, visit the NE part of the valley and its high E rim; 
spend the night in a chalet with such fare as the peasants can provide. 
Otherwise take the S path from the ruined monastery past Plosta, 
1412 m., and Les Arbets, 1552 m., to the Col d'Arclusaz, 1773 m., 
4.7 k. from the monastery or 7.7 k. from Ecole : superb prospect 
over and across the valley of Isere. The Dent d'Arclusaz, 2046 m., 
1 k. NNW from the col, or " La Chat," 1955 m., 1.5 k. NE, may be 
ascended from near Les Arbets. Return from the col via Ecole and 
the Col du Frene, as above: or better, descend S from the Col 
d'Arclusaz by a steep zigzag path (before leaving Ecole, inquire 
about the condition of this path and the time needed for its descent 
to the railway; a guide is desirable for inexperienced climbers in the 
first part of the descent). Below the cliffs, turn SE and descend to 
Freterive-le-Villard, 341 m., 2.1k. direct distance from the col: 
thence S 3 k to Chamousset sta., 309 m. on the main railway line S 
of the Isere (unless a nearer station is found on the Albertville 
branch line that passes Freterive on the N side of the Isere) : train 
to Chambery and Aix. 

Exc. 11. Maps 4 and 9. Chambery and the southern ranges of the 
Bauges. By train from Aix, S 14 k. to Chambery, 270 m., pop. 
23,000 (many htls.), formerly capital of the Duchy of Savoy. 

The city is situated where the Leisse passes between the spurs that 
descend from the subalpine ranges of the Bauges on the N and of the 
Grande Chartreuse on the S. The breach which here separates the sub- 
alpine ranges is generally open floored, but it is locally narrowed by the 
two spurs: thus the location of the city is defined. Here the railway 
makes an easy low-grade crossing from the trough of Lake Bourget to 
the valley of the Isere and its branch, the Arc, on the way to Italy : the 
main range of the Alps which marks the boundary between France and 
Italy is pierced beneath the Col du Frejus by the " tunnel des Alpes," 
13 k. long, finished in 1870, the first subalpine tunnel (commonly but 
incorrectly known in the U. S. as the "Mt. Cenis tunnel," from a pass of 
that name which lies 22 k. NE, where the old stage road crosses the 
mountains) . 



26 



CHAMBERY 



Many objects of historic interest are to be seen in Chambery: — The 
Cathedral dates from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries; the castle, 
founded in 1232 but later destroyed by fires, was restored in the nine- 
teenth century; from one of its towers, a fine view is gained of the city 
and its surroundings ; a museum containing remains of prehistoric lake 
dwellers, various Gallo-Roman antiquities, and full collection of Savoy 
coins; the Jardin des Plantes and its museum, with geological, and 
botanical collections; in this museum is the office of an important 



. 




The Southern Ranges of the Bauges 



THE SOUTHERN RANGES OF THE BAUGES 27 

section of the French Alpine Club. Many industries flourish here. A 
fine view may be had from the church of Lemenc, on a spur, 320-350 m., 
0.5 k. N of the railway. 

One or two days may be well given to easy walks in the southern 
ranges of the Bauges, east of Chambery, where a double " canoe " 
mountain — a smaller and higher canoe standing in a larger and 
lower one — forms the mountain salient between the valley of the 
Isere and the Chambery breach. Cross the Leisse in the city, and 
follow the highway and second-order road ENE up the left (S) bank 
of the stream across the open breach, 300 m. alt., between the adjoin- 
ing subalpine ranges : 4 k. from the city the deep chasm of the Leisse 
known as " le Bout du Monde " (the End of the World) is cut in a 
bench, 500 m. alt. Ascend the bench by a third-order road, S of the 
chasm, to Curienne, 8 k. from Chambery, and continue SE 6 k. 
farther to La Thuile, 831 m. (inns), near a small lake in the depres- 
sion between the round end of the lower canoe and the sharp end 
of the higher canoe. Many delightful rambles along valleys and 
over ridges may be made from this village as a center. The upper 
canoe, twice breached on its W side, has a knob, la Pointe de la 
Galoppaz, 1686 m., on its E side, 4 k. N of La Thuile; this is best 
ascended via Puisgros, NW 4 k. from La Thuile, and one of the W 
breaches. A second-order road from Chambery via St. Jean d ; Ar- 
vey (inn) and Thoiry (inn) enters the more northern of the two 
W breaches and turns N along the upper canoe valley past 
Aillon-le-Jeune to Aillon-le-Vieux, whence it is continued by a 
rough road to Le ,Chatelard, 14 k. (see Exc. 10). The lower canoe 
is breached 2 k. E of La Thuile, where a road zigzags down to Cruet in 
the Isere valley; but a better exit is made by ascending the round S 
end of the canoe to La Roche du Guet, 1210 m., 2 k. S of La 
Thuile, and descending thence by a zigzag path, S 1.5 k. to Mont- 
melian sta. at ry. junction, 280 m. (htl.), 12 k. from Chambery. 



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